Can you taste organic?

Is the organic wine glass half empty, or is it half full? To some extent, the answer depends on who's looking.

On the one hand, the folks at the Organic Trade Association recently reported, with apparent delight, that U.S. sales of certified organic wines and wines made with organic grapes reached $80 million last year, a 28 percent increase over the previous year and nearly double the sales of organic wines in 2003.